Kelly Doust introduces readers to her wonderful world of reviving and customising vintage pieces, while bringing a modern and unique twist to wearing vintage clothes – Dita Von Teese
A spot of auction trawling
1980s Zandra Rhodes couture frock, auctioned late 2011
Today’s tip for vintage fashion and fabric hunters, and indeed anyone interested in sourcing rare, high-quality vintage items is don’t overlook the auction houses. Especially if you prefer true antiques to vintage or retro (remember: 70s-80s items = retro, 20s-60s = true vintage, and anything pre-1920s or over a hundred years old is considered antique). Most auctioneers list their items in online catalogues and allow absentee bids, so you can buy from anywhere in the world providing the items are compact (and the auctioneers willing) enough to pop them in the post for you. Ebay’s great of course, but its popularity means bargains are few and far between.
I’m keeping my eye on this clothing and textiles auction, to be held next month by Theodore Bruce. The catalogue should include historic, vintage and designer fashion, accessories, lace, needlework, samplers, textiles, sewing tools and related items. One to watch. And when it comes time to bid, just another hint for auction novices: decide what you’re willing to spend and stick to your guns. Start small by bidding on inexpensive items, build up your confidence noting the forecasted price versus real price items sell for, and you’ll hit your straps in no time. Go forth and plunder.
Costume Appreciation 101
Jean Dujardin and Bérénice Bejo in The Artist
I went to see this at the Open Air Cinema a few nights ago and anticipated admiring the recreations of 1920s and early 30s-era screen style, but was unsure about a silent, black & white film enthralling for the full 100 minutes. But I adored The Artist, the new French film nominated to win a Golden Globe tonight, which is pure delight from start to finish. Featuring one of the best tap dance scenes in cinema history, it also gets my vote for best film ending ever.
But back to the vintage-look threads: costume designer Mark Bridges previously styled Mark Wahlberg and Heather Graham (aka Dirk Diggler and the memorable ‘Roller Girl’) as 1970s porn stars in Boogie Nights, and Johnny Depp and Penelope Cruz’s as 60s drug dealers in suits and maxidresses for Blow. A good part of my enjoyment in each film came from soaking up the era-appropriate set design and costumes, and The Artist is no different. I was in danger of missing some excellent sight gags while off on a brain-tangent admiring the painstakingly-detailed frocks and embroidered cloches in this charming, clever film. And who knew a top hat and tails could be so very appealing?
Vintage lovers, you must watch this. Then opt for a spot of real-time fashion, forties-style with The Maltese Falcon and Notorious, two of my favourite old-Hollywood b&w flicks, which I’m currently digging out of the DVD cabinet. Watch the film trailer for The Artist here, and feel free to comment with your own favourite costume films. Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris was another recent favourite.
- ‘Peppy Miller’ – peppy by name, peppy by nature
'George Valentin' - eat your heart out, Clark Gable
Aprons in your downtime
This is Mabel. Mabel’s mother Alison came along to the handmade gifts workshop at Surry Hills Library just before Christmas, and knocked up this oilcloth apron in an hour or so following instructions from my book, The Crafty Kid: projects for and with children.
These aprons have to be one of the simplest and most gratifying craft projects to create. Excellent gifts, the oilcloth also renders them perfect for little ones in the kitchen because they’re so utterly food-proof – simply wipe clean. I even made a grownup’s version for myself.
MINI-ME APRONS
Materials
For an apron fit for your favourite five-year-old, a 35cm wide x 45cm high piece of oilcloth
2 metres ribbon
2 metres bias binding
2 colours embroidery thread; one to match bias binding, one in a contrasting colour
Embroidery needle
Scissors
Ruler
One round saucer or small plate
Pen
Instructions
1. Take your rectangle of oilcloth, ruler and pen. Measure and make a small mark 10cm in from the top right hand corner of the oilcloth, and 15cm down.
2. Place one quarter of the saucer on the spot where these two lines will intersect, and use your pen to draw around the outside, directly onto the oilcloth.
3. Use scissors to cut away the excess fabric beyond the line you have made.
4. Repeat the above two steps on the top left corner of the oilcloth.
5. Take your bias binding, apron-shaped oilcloth, and fold the binding over the edge of the bottom left-hand corner. Secure in place with a couple of small, firm stitches, then use a running stitch to affix the bias binding around the entire border.
6. When you reach a corner, fold the bias binding under itself and keep stitching. You might want to insert another stitch diagonally at each corner, just to be safe.
7. When you get to the end, leave a few millimetres and chop off any excess binding. Fold underneath at an angle and stitch firmly in place.
8. Place one end of the shortest length of ribbon to the top right corner of the apron, at the back. Use your contrasting embroidery thread and needle to affix with three small, ‘x’ shaped stitches.
9. Close the loop by securing the other side in place as well.
10. Secure the remaining lengths of ribbon to either corner just underneath the armhole with the same ‘x’ stitches. Et voila, you’re done.
Cute Christina in her adult-size apron
Crisscross
With the birds
Sydney sunrise, courtesy Peter Lee
I’ve always been an eary morning person of sorts, but lately I have taken an almost perverse pleasure in rising with the sun. There’s something subversive about greeting the dawn. It’s like sucking a few more hours from the day. Never mind that I’m toast by 9pm, it’s worth it for the colours alone. Today’s task: find dye to match sun-orange, salmon pink and grey slate water before dawn. I’m staring at a batch of old white silks and linens, done with neutrals, envisioning India in a basket.
An Indian colour powder stall
New beauties
Rachel Castle & Lisa Gorman collaboration
The countdown is on – I’m finally thinking Christmas gifts, and here’s some which caught my eye:
Love love a clever collaboration, and especially this new collection by two favourite Australian designers. The super-fresh skirt above is on the wishlist (hint hint, husband – that means you), and I’m also lusting after more Castle & Things pillowcases and the beach towel and bag below for sunnier days.
With the book industry in such doldrums, I’m buying books for everyone this year, but plan to pair them with handmade treats and a few special items from The Lowercase and Paper2. Earmarking these Barbara Wiggins cracked-leather satchels, a Freckle Rug from The Lowercase, cute brooches from Made by White & Friends and anything Dinosaur Designs. In particular (but not limited to) this fetching Shifting Planes bangle. Oh, and a headpiece or two from Ginny & Jude… that should do the trick.
Bring on the zing, I say.
Love knitting brooch by Lisa Manuels for Made by White
The Paper Hearts collection by Ginny & Jude
Nani IRO fabrics
Shall we polka?
Last weekend at Surry Hills Library I ran a craft workshop for around 25, making early xmas gifts whipped up by hand and sharing favourite places to source materials. There was much discussion on Japanese fabrics, yarns and pattern books because as a rule, I think the Japanese have nailed the quirky craft market, consistently producing covetable materials I can never seem to own enough of.
Nani IRO is one such collection of stylish, unique designs. Some are printed on lovely cotton, others on linen blends or 100% cotton soft double gauze, and they’re perfect for fashioning homewares, bags, wall art and clothing. Duckcloth stocks an enviable range, as does Calico & Ivy. I’ve used them for skirts, cushions, curtains and lightweight scarves to name a few. And they wash so beautifully, too – well worth purchasing a metre or two in time for holiday crafting.
Love a wonky stripe
Poppy field
The New Artisans
If you own The Crafty Kid, you will have read about my good friend Olivier Dupon before. Olivier used to operate an exceptionally special French homewares store in Rozelle, Sydney called Lola et Moi. Since shutting up shop, he’s been working on his wonderfully edgy Dossier 37 blog, as well as this vast project: a collection of profiled artisans, published in Australia this month by Thames & Hudson.
The New Artisans captures the new mood in craftsmanship – a return to a preference for the unique and the handmade. Olivier, a former buyer for Christian Dior and various luxury labels, has sourced the cream of the contemporary design world from all over Europe, Australia and the United States, profiling 75 artisans who use craft techniques rather than mass-production methods to create stylish, whimsical, covetable objects. 850+ colour photographs feature a huge variety of crafts including art, ceramics, furniture, glasswork, jewellery, lighting, metalwork, papercraft, textiles and woodwork. Complete with a directory of products, and personal recommendations for inspiring shops and websites to visit, his is the perfect resource for discovering unique and beautiful objects made by new, talented artisans from all around the world.
Here’s some of my favourite spreads and profiled artisans below – ‘like’ the Facebook page for regular updates. A further book is already in the works… top secret for now, but more to follow soon I’m sure. Prepare to be inspired!
The Minxy Vintage Treasure Hunt winners
Thank you so much to all the entrants in the Minxy Vintage Treasure Hunt – I just loved looking through your finds, and hope you appreciate the winners’ stories and treasures as much as I did. We’ll be in touch this week with details on how to claim your prizes.
'A nice old bit of rag'
1st prize – Sarah Hyland ($500 voucher to Coco Repose)
When I found this 1930s capelet in the bottom of a box of material at my local Salvos, my heart skipped a beat. The lady at the counter said That’s a nice old bit of rag love, that’ll be a dollar.
$5 on the Nose! Frocks, Fillies and a box full of Hats!
2nd prize – Bree Hiatt ($100 voucher to Vinnies)
The gorgeous old vollies headed off to the storeroom and returned with a dirty box. Inside sat five hats covered in dust in various conditions. One hat caught my eye – it had a beautiful yellow ribbon. I asked if I could possibly buy the whole box. They could not understand why I’d be interested when they had a window full of hats ready to wear… Of course I felt like I’d picked a winner and had not even been to the races yet. Each hat had been stuffed with newspaper to preserve their shape – the newspaper was from September 1948!
Party Frock
3rd prize – Steph (Murdoch book pack)
A beautiful cotton dress and belt, perfect for a mad hatter’s tea party. Found this gem in a charity store in North Lismore and have lent it to friends, danced in it, spilt paint on it – I hardly need to say it’s a fun dress and I’d hate to lock it up.
Bag & beads
Joint 3rd prize – Meaghan Quirk (Murdoch book pack)
My favourite vintage buy is this 1940s telephone cord bag I got in Melbourne years ago which had a very old movie ticket inside. I just couldn’t throw it out, so it’s stayed in the pocket. Also some vintage milk glass beads and a brooch that came from markets and fairs.
Inspired by… vintage ethnic
Old as the hills: cross-stitch skirt from Vietnam's Sapa region
I’ve been asked quite a lot lately about my favourite eras in fashion… difficult to answer, given the latest book is all about cherry-picking the best bits from the past and mixing up your references. But my response is the 1950s for evening wear (for the drama and decadence and romance which followed the sheer austerity of the war years) and 1970s by day.
Why? Because despite its awful connotations of wide lapels, shag hairdos and disco-babe synthetics, I simply adore the global mood which found its way into fashion with the advent of widespread air travel. Previously far-flung countries such as Morocco and India and those in the the Far East opened up as desirable holiday destinations, and infected fashion with a hippie luxe vibe and sense of adventure. The seventies foray into kaftans, bell sleeves, floaty scarves and historic decorative techniques is irresistable, and not dissimilar to the Ballet Russes / Oriental-inspired mood of the 1920s (but seventies pieces are easier to find, and will set you back less).
The golden years of fashion in fifties America also saw some dabbling in cross-cultural references. South Pacific-inspired florals, Mexican tooling and vibrant prints ruled, and I’m always on the lookout for those items which have survived a good half-century or more to be worn today (case in point, the bandeaus seen in recent runway cruise collections – very fifties but very now).
As a mother who works from home, this sort of detail – worn elegantly dishevelled – always wins out over clean lines for me, and informs the relaxed vibe of a modern home and wardrobe. If only these crafty, authentic techniques with metallic thread, mirrors, dye and pattern-mixing were available in mainstream fashion, and not just for the couture crowd. A trip to Rajasthan is on the cards, as I’d love a lesson in how to do it myself. Maybe when Olive hits five, and we can start her off as well. Long live these ancient skills.
Afghan charm: seventies kaftan
South of the border, down Mexico way: a fifties hand-painted circle skirt
Cocktail Couture
Come to this event in the Blue Mountains if you can – it’s for a good cause and a visit to the mountains always lifts the spirits, don’t you think? I’ll be attending in one of Charlotte’s precious frocks from The Darnell Collection. Can’t wait.