Kelly Doust introduces readers to her wonderful world of reviving and customising vintage pieces, while bringing a modern and unique twist to wearing vintage clothes – Dita Von Teese
Graduate designer Rebecca Bombacci
There’s a line in Crazy Stupid Love where Ryan Gosling’s character grabs Steve Carrell’s hapless loser in the best man-makeover on film (if you don’t count the exceptionally clever Ru Paul’s Drag Race, but that’s another blog post). Carrell mutters something about his jeans being perfectly fine and from the Gap, when Gosling stares him down and hisses, “Be better than the Gap”. This pretty much sums up my attitude towards mainstream fashion. I’ve nothing against Gap or any other chainstore - affordable, well-designed basics have their place in any wardrobe - but unless you’re an old-school Labour politician, why would you want all your clothing to express you’re perfectly fine portraying yourself as mediocre, the everyman?
I met Rebecca recently, a graduate from the University of Technology. We bonded over a particularly fabulous Sass & Bide belt before she shared the collection created for her course with me. Based on how life on the road inspires the use of nature as shelter and protection, Rebecca used raw fabrics such as wool, cashmere and leather and created her own contemporary lace from alpaca fleece. Softer textures were inspired by the longing for comfort, warmth and familiarity when moving around or living out of a suitcase. The harder elements seen in the leather pieces suggest the natural human instinct for shelter and protection, hence the earthy tones. Apart from the shoes, this is all her original design work – designed, pattern made and sampled, with outsource assistance brought in for the final garments where specialised equipment was needed (dyeing, leather construction, etc).
It’s the unique theories behind a designer’s work I find most inspiring. Luella Bartley and her debut Daddy I Want A Pony collection back in 1998 being a case in point. Sass & Bide’s new Seekerstate collection is also getting me hot under the collar. And it’s why I think, despite the accessibility of easy, throwaway fashion, we should always consider what we want to wear and why, and buy the best we can afford, no matter what the budget. This is the crux of why I started vintage shopping in the first place: when you can’t buy everything you want brand-new, seek it out second-hand and give it an original twist. Own it. Be better than the Gap, indeed.
Sonia Hensler illustrations
Sonia Hensler private commission
I’ve been researching illustrators recently for a new project I’m working on, and happened to come across the work of Sonia Hensler. Sonia’s work incorporates traditional drawing, mixed media and photography which is so modern and very now, with commissions including magazines and fashion brands such as The Wall Street Journal, Coco de Mer and TopShop, amongst others.
These are some of my favourites which I thought I’d share - loving the carnival atmosphere and opulence of her dreamy concoctions.
Wall Street Journal coverT-shirt design for Topshop Bus campaign, Warsaw
T-shirt design for Topshop
Self-portrait, Sonia Hensler
Feeling fifties (again and again and again)
Bring it on
Behold the latest Prada campaign. Is this gas station chic or what? Totally mesmerised by the Pink Ladies-meets Betty Page-meets To Catch A Thief feel of Miucca’s new collection, which appears to be shot in out-takes from the drag race scene in Grease. Check out the flame-rider shoes, won’t you, paired with all that bling from the new jewellery collection.
Somewhat more than inspired.
Pretty in Pink
Printastic
To the Riviera please, driver
The matching set - Michael Pitt gets in on the act
Paper craft by Anna-Wili Highfield
Horse mask for Hermès
If the craft material of choice for winter is woolly yarn, for the sizzling days of summer it must surely be paper. I’ve long admired the cool, modern style of Sydney-based artist Anna-Wili Highfield’s paper sculptures, having seen them in various magazines and window displays over the years. They have the still-life fascination of taxidermy but the abstract details of torn paper, hanging threads and hinted-at forms make them more lively and desirable than any stuffed animal.
Currently working with paper and copper pipe, Highfield’s paper pieces are constructed from archival cotton paper which is painted and sewn together. Her commercial clients include Carla Zampatti, Bianca Spender, Anthropologie and Hermès, with client commissions from across the globe. One day I would love to purchase one of my own. Perhaps a paper Pegasus, or one of her many fine owl studies.
Boobook
Copper deer sculpture
Robin
Anna-Wili Highfield portrait, Jai Odell
Costume Appreciation 101
Jean Dujardin and Bérénice Bejo in The Artist
I went to see this at the Open Air Cinema a few nights ago and anticipated admiring the recreations of 1920s and early 30s-era screen style, but was unsure about a silent, black & white film enthralling for the full 100 minutes. But I adored The Artist, the new French film nominated to win a Golden Globe tonight, which is pure delight from start to finish. Featuring one of the best tap dance scenes in cinema history, it also gets my vote for best film ending ever.
But back to the vintage-look threads: costume designer Mark Bridges previously styled Mark Wahlberg and Heather Graham (aka Dirk Diggler and the memorable ‘Roller Girl’) as 1970s porn stars in Boogie Nights, and Johnny Depp and Penelope Cruz’s as 60s drug dealers in suits and maxidresses for Blow. A good part of my enjoyment in each film came from soaking up the era-appropriate set design and costumes, and The Artist is no different. I was in danger of missing some excellent sight gags while off on a brain-tangent admiring the painstakingly-detailed frocks and embroidered cloches in this charming, clever film. And who knew a top hat and tails could be so very appealing?
Vintage lovers, you must watch this. Then opt for a spot of real-time fashion, forties-style with The Maltese Falcon and Notorious, two of my favourite old-Hollywood b&w flicks, which I’m currently digging out of the DVD cabinet. Watch the film trailer for The Artist here, and feel free to comment with your own favourite costume films. Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris was another recent favourite.
- ‘Peppy Miller’ – peppy by name, peppy by nature
'George Valentin' - eat your heart out, Clark Gable
New beauties
Rachel Castle & Lisa Gorman collaboration
The countdown is on – I’m finally thinking Christmas gifts, and here’s some which caught my eye:
Love love a clever collaboration, and especially this new collection by two favourite Australian designers. The super-fresh skirt above is on the wishlist (hint hint, husband – that means you), and I’m also lusting after more Castle & Things pillowcases and the beach towel and bag below for sunnier days.
With the book industry in such doldrums, I’m buying books for everyone this year, but plan to pair them with handmade treats and a few special items from The Lowercase and Paper2. Earmarking these Barbara Wiggins cracked-leather satchels, a Freckle Rug from The Lowercase, cute brooches from Made by White & Friends and anything Dinosaur Designs. In particular (but not limited to) this fetching Shifting Planes bangle. Oh, and a headpiece or two from Ginny & Jude… that should do the trick.
Bring on the zing, I say.
Love knitting brooch by Lisa Manuels for Made by White
The Paper Hearts collection by Ginny & Jude
Nani IRO fabrics
Shall we polka?
Last weekend at Surry Hills Library I ran a craft workshop for around 25, making early xmas gifts whipped up by hand and sharing favourite places to source materials. There was much discussion on Japanese fabrics, yarns and pattern books because as a rule, I think the Japanese have nailed the quirky craft market, consistently producing covetable materials I can never seem to own enough of.
Nani IRO is one such collection of stylish, unique designs. Some are printed on lovely cotton, others on linen blends or 100% cotton soft double gauze, and they’re perfect for fashioning homewares, bags, wall art and clothing. Duckcloth stocks an enviable range, as does Calico & Ivy. I’ve used them for skirts, cushions, curtains and lightweight scarves to name a few. And they wash so beautifully, too – well worth purchasing a metre or two in time for holiday crafting.
Love a wonky stripe
Poppy field
The New Artisans
If you own The Crafty Kid, you will have read about my good friend Olivier Dupon before. Olivier used to operate an exceptionally special French homewares store in Rozelle, Sydney called Lola et Moi. Since shutting up shop, he’s been working on his wonderfully edgy Dossier 37 blog, as well as this vast project: a collection of profiled artisans, published in Australia this month by Thames & Hudson.
The New Artisans captures the new mood in craftsmanship – a return to a preference for the unique and the handmade. Olivier, a former buyer for Christian Dior and various luxury labels, has sourced the cream of the contemporary design world from all over Europe, Australia and the United States, profiling 75 artisans who use craft techniques rather than mass-production methods to create stylish, whimsical, covetable objects. 850+ colour photographs feature a huge variety of crafts including art, ceramics, furniture, glasswork, jewellery, lighting, metalwork, papercraft, textiles and woodwork. Complete with a directory of products, and personal recommendations for inspiring shops and websites to visit, his is the perfect resource for discovering unique and beautiful objects made by new, talented artisans from all around the world.
Here’s some of my favourite spreads and profiled artisans below – ‘like’ the Facebook page for regular updates. A further book is already in the works… top secret for now, but more to follow soon I’m sure. Prepare to be inspired!
Inspired by… vintage ethnic
Old as the hills: cross-stitch skirt from Vietnam's Sapa region
I’ve been asked quite a lot lately about my favourite eras in fashion… difficult to answer, given the latest book is all about cherry-picking the best bits from the past and mixing up your references. But my response is the 1950s for evening wear (for the drama and decadence and romance which followed the sheer austerity of the war years) and 1970s by day.
Why? Because despite its awful connotations of wide lapels, shag hairdos and disco-babe synthetics, I simply adore the global mood which found its way into fashion with the advent of widespread air travel. Previously far-flung countries such as Morocco and India and those in the the Far East opened up as desirable holiday destinations, and infected fashion with a hippie luxe vibe and sense of adventure. The seventies foray into kaftans, bell sleeves, floaty scarves and historic decorative techniques is irresistable, and not dissimilar to the Ballet Russes / Oriental-inspired mood of the 1920s (but seventies pieces are easier to find, and will set you back less).
The golden years of fashion in fifties America also saw some dabbling in cross-cultural references. South Pacific-inspired florals, Mexican tooling and vibrant prints ruled, and I’m always on the lookout for those items which have survived a good half-century or more to be worn today (case in point, the bandeaus seen in recent runway cruise collections – very fifties but very now).
As a mother who works from home, this sort of detail – worn elegantly dishevelled – always wins out over clean lines for me, and informs the relaxed vibe of a modern home and wardrobe. If only these crafty, authentic techniques with metallic thread, mirrors, dye and pattern-mixing were available in mainstream fashion, and not just for the couture crowd. A trip to Rajasthan is on the cards, as I’d love a lesson in how to do it myself. Maybe when Olive hits five, and we can start her off as well. Long live these ancient skills.
Afghan charm: seventies kaftan
South of the border, down Mexico way: a fifties hand-painted circle skirt
Love Vintage wrap-up
Ah, Love Vintage… why are you over until March next year? I’m in withdrawal.
Glam 1930s-era hairpiece from Circa Vintage Hats
Last weekend’s event was by far the biggest and most buzziest I’ve been to in some time. Perhaps it’s because vintage is so hot right now (need evidence, Mugatu? Read this article… if the Tele says so it must be true). Or perhaps it’s because all the workshops and talks – which I adored, by the way, and thanks to the scores of lovely people who attended mine – were just brimming with enthusiasm and admiration for such high-quality pieces from yesteryear. Indeed you could barely hear yourself think above the chatter, tip-sharing and general gasps when gowns fit like the proverbial glove. It was every vintage vixen’s dream.
Heart it: true vintage by Rosalie, Giorgio & Robyn
Channelling Betty Draper / Veronica Lake, thanks to Mistress Chrissy of the Lindy Charm School
How many 50s prom dresses can one girl own?
Jess Guthrie weaves a little feather magic
Lindy Charm school recreates Underbelly: Razor
I may not wear vintage head to toe in everyday life, but this was the place to indulge latent screen siren fantasies. Thanks to the fabulous Chrissy, Lucy Topp and ladies of the Lindy Charm School for Girls for their stunning ‘dos, MC Bonnie Rose and to Charlotte Smith of Dreaming of Dior fame & the Darnell Collection for her fascinating forays into clothing’s social history. Not to mention all the dealers who made the journey out to Canterbury Racecourse to sell their wares. Thank you thank you Coco Repose, Garden Street Bazaar, Empire 47 and Circa Vintage Hats, to name but a few.
Until next year.
Orange silk poppies on my immaculate Coco Repose 60s Wiggle dress
Garden Street Bazaar for spectacular vintage everything
And today's job: tea-dyeing white lace to cover the holes in a 1950s coolie-style hat