Kelly Doust introduces readers to her wonderful world of reviving and customising vintage pieces, while bringing a modern and unique twist to wearing vintage clothes – Dita Von Teese
Cara Mia Vintage
Vivienne Westwood hoop(la!) skirt from Cara Mia Vintage
A few weeks ago I re-organised the entire wardrobe, pulling together an Autumn look and passing on old items to a friend’s teenage daughter. Out came anything needing spot cleaning or repairs, as well as those pieces earmarked for full or partial overhauls with snipping and embellishing, which I’ve been working my way through. And I kept a notepad nearby to jot down items to find so I could wear others more often, as and when they sprung to mind.
First on the wishlist was a vintage fur gilet, and I found the best version on shopCOLLECT‘s Etsy site. It struck me how totally gorgeous and professional the online styling for vintage has become – with pieces modelled just as beautifully as any designer shopping site such as Net-a-Porter or Shopbop. To me this is the acme of vintage appreciation, proving the old has become just as desirable as the new (if not more so for its rarity) in fashion. I don’t buy a helluva lot online because I like staying local and trying things on, but accessories and outerwear can be brilliant if you’re stuck finding them elsewhere.
I mentioned Cara Mia Vintage recently, having cooed over some of the most divine and archival designer pieces I’ve seen in the flesh at Love Vintage. Her collection rivals the designer vintage stores I’ve visited in London and Paris, and sits right up there with the Dress Box Vintage concession at Liberty, despite being quite a bit smaller. I wanted to share with you some of my favourites, just to show you how fab these classic vintage looks can work when worn with modern style. This is the way to wear vintage today, and it’s truly inspiring. More please.
Anonymous feather chubby & Pucci skirt
D&G supermodel bustier
Pretty Pucci sundress
Christian Dior lace cutwork blouse
Yves Saint Laurent green linen jacket
Waxing Koigu
Knitting with Koigu - socks designed by Barbara Brown
How darned cute are these? Socks from the new Koigu Magazine in ‘Autumn Berries’ and some scarves to make you wish for colder weather.
I’ve almost completed a crochet project with Japanese Koigu yarn in various shades from lemon to hot pink, and it’s such a buzz to work with. Not for the delicious texture alone, which is soft and fine and anything but sticky, but the delight in watching its variegated colours play out. And it looks amazing on smaller items such as roses or scarves for little people. I’m going to give the knitted iPod case just completed at my Corner Shop workshop a go in a zesty lemon-lime-tomato combination next, with Koigu from Calico & Ivy Balmain.
Now the days are getting cooler, I’m keen to be knitting and crocheting when I can. And I’ve gotten to the sweet spot with crocheting where I can watch a film or chat and still concentrate on keeping up a pattern, which is heaven.
The challenge this winter? To learn how to make socks, so I can give a pair or two to friends with mid-year birthdays. Wish me luck.
Home sewing is easy!
Esther Han interviewed me for this piece in the Sydney Morning Herald today.
Apparently dressmaking courses are seeing a huge surge in popularity, with much of the buzz about recreating all the vintage-style frocks we’re going in for of late. Lovely news (or at least nicer than the other headlines I read this morning) because not everyone can find a true vintage frock to fit, much as they’d like to.
I’ve been dying to make a vintage frock from scratch for aeons. Inner Westies should try the Summer Hill Sewing Emporium if you can’t get to Beverley’s classes in Penshurst, or any of the squillion on offer at TAFE.
Convinced? For inspiration, see Cara Mia Vintage for some lustworthy original designer pieces from the likes of Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Pucci, Moschino, Vivienne Westwood and Ungaro. Cara Weinstock’s pieces had me positively drooling at the last Love Vintage.
Bellissima, darlings!
Lucy Folk jewellery
Burger Rings
I can’t quite believe I haven’t mentioned Lucy Folk here before. I’ve adored her pretzel and taco pieces since first spying them at wonderful Melbourne store, Alice Euphemia years ago, but they still rock hard. This is my favourite kind of jewellery: tongue-in-cheek, high-fashion, precious, and capable of dressing up the very best thriftstore threads or anything, really.
And how cute is the girl herself? Totally crushing on the taco pendant below, which is on the wishlist. Love love.
Friendship bracelet
Lucy Folk
Spicy!
Top birds: Harlequin Market
Bluebird brooch
I love the girls at Harlequin Market – check out these fab new birdy brooches, just in. Perfect for adorning your cocoon coat this winter.
If you’re searching for costume sparklers, cuffs, Lucite bags, unserious Bakelite pieces from the twenties onwards and anything statement, this is the best vintage jewellery store in Sydney, with pieces sourced from all over the world by owner Bruna Harrison. Start saving those pennies.
Vintage gold Chanel cuff from Harlequin Market
Hello Polly
Graduate designer Rebecca Bombacci
It’s the unique theories behind a designer’s work I find most inspiring, such as Luella Bartley and her debut Daddy I Want A Pony collection back in 1998.
I met Rebecca recently, a graduate from the University of Technology, who shares the collection created for her course with me here. Based on how life on the road inspires the use of nature as shelter and protection, Rebecca used raw fabrics such as wool, cashmere and leather and created her own contemporary lace from alpaca fleece. Softer textures were inspired by the longing for comfort, warmth and familiarity when moving around or living out of a suitcase. The harder elements seen in the leather pieces suggest the natural human instinct for shelter and protection, hence the earthy tones. Apart from the shoes, this is all her original design work – designed, pattern made and sampled, with outsource assistance brought in for the final garments where specialised equipment was needed (dyeing, leather construction, etc).
I love Rebecca’s futuristic take on such old, raw materials, and her adventurousness with accessories. It’s something to keep in mind: even if your own machine doesn’t do the job, there are ways and means of having your ideas turned into reality.
Sonia Hensler illustrations
Sonia Hensler private commission
I’ve been researching illustrators recently for a new project I’m working on, and happened to come across the work of Sonia Hensler. Sonia’s work incorporates traditional drawing, mixed media and photography which is so modern and very now, with commissions including magazines and fashion brands such as The Wall Street Journal, Coco de Mer and TopShop, amongst others.
These are some of my favourites which I thought I’d share - loving the carnival atmosphere and opulence of her dreamy concoctions.
Wall Street Journal coverT-shirt design for Topshop Bus campaign, Warsaw
T-shirt design for Topshop
Self-portrait, Sonia Hensler
Feeling fifties (again and again and again)
Bring it on
Behold the latest Prada campaign. Is this gas station chic or what? Totally mesmerised by the Pink Ladies-meets Betty Page-meets To Catch A Thief feel of Miucca’s new collection, which appears to be shot in out-takes from the drag race scene in Grease. Check out the flame-rider shoes, won’t you, paired with all that bling from the new jewellery collection.
Somewhat more than inspired.
Pretty in Pink
Printastic
To the Riviera please, driver
The matching set - Michael Pitt gets in on the act
Paper craft by Anna-Wili Highfield
Horse mask for Hermès
If the craft material of choice for winter is woolly yarn, for the sizzling days of summer it must surely be paper. I’ve long admired the cool, modern style of Sydney-based artist Anna-Wili Highfield’s paper sculptures, having seen them in various magazines and window displays over the years. They have the still-life fascination of taxidermy but the abstract details of torn paper, hanging threads and hinted-at forms make them more lively and desirable than any stuffed animal.
Currently working with paper and copper pipe, Highfield’s paper pieces are constructed from archival cotton paper which is painted and sewn together. Her commercial clients include Carla Zampatti, Bianca Spender, Anthropologie and Hermès, with client commissions from across the globe. One day I would love to purchase one of my own. Perhaps a paper Pegasus, or one of her many fine owl studies.
Boobook
Copper deer sculpture
Robin
Anna-Wili Highfield portrait, Jai Odell
Costume Appreciation 101
Jean Dujardin and Bérénice Bejo in The Artist
I went to see this at the Open Air Cinema a few nights ago and anticipated admiring the recreations of 1920s and early 30s-era screen style, but was unsure about a silent, black & white film enthralling for the full 100 minutes. But I adored The Artist, the new French film nominated to win a Golden Globe tonight, which is pure delight from start to finish. Featuring one of the best tap dance scenes in cinema history, it also gets my vote for best film ending ever.
But back to the vintage-look threads: costume designer Mark Bridges previously styled Mark Wahlberg and Heather Graham (aka Dirk Diggler and the memorable ‘Roller Girl’) as 1970s porn stars in Boogie Nights, and Johnny Depp and Penelope Cruz’s as 60s drug dealers in suits and maxidresses for Blow. A good part of my enjoyment in each film came from soaking up the era-appropriate set design and costumes, and The Artist is no different. I was in danger of missing some excellent sight gags while off on a brain-tangent admiring the painstakingly-detailed frocks and embroidered cloches in this charming, clever film. And who knew a top hat and tails could be so very appealing?
Vintage lovers, you must watch this. Then opt for a spot of real-time fashion, forties-style with The Maltese Falcon and Notorious, two of my favourite old-Hollywood b&w flicks, which I’m currently digging out of the DVD cabinet. Watch the film trailer for The Artist here, and feel free to comment with your own favourite costume films. Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris was another recent favourite.
- ‘Peppy Miller’ – peppy by name, peppy by nature
'George Valentin' - eat your heart out, Clark Gable